Amy Salmon's E-Mail from
Here in Chiang Mai we are heading full blast into
season, which I'm getting the feeling is going to be pretty much
exactly how it
sounds. It's also known as the monsoon season, of course,
I've yet to hear a Thai refer to it as anything but "the
season". And rain it does, in bucketfuls. It's
gotten significantly cooler, even when it's not raining, which is nice,
although the humidity is still high. But the mountains
gorgeous and the air is
much fresher. The city has a different feel
it's quieter, and there aren't as many tourists.
when the rains come down with such force it's not exactly
be out and about!
My trip to southern
The scenery was breathtaking, especially when
arrived, flying in over Phuket. I really thought the sea was
the sky; it
was such an amazing color. I got the bus from Phuket
to Krabi, which is still on the
I got up the second morning
and when I
went down for breakfast it was raining. Most
that part of
The boat finally arrived and one of the
helped me get my (very impractical for southern
However, determined to soldier on, I lugged the suitcase over to the bungalows I was looking for, called Mambo. I got a bungalow for $5 a night, which seemed like a great deal until I saw the place...which was a little shack made of some kind of organic material, like palms, with a tin roof. There was a little desk with a mirror and a little chair, and a shelf with a mattress on it, with a large mosquito net suspended above it. There was also a fan, and a door at the other end of the room, which opened out to a patio type thing, uncovered except for some pretty big trees, with an outdoor shower and a toilet. No sink, just a bucket with a faucet and a smaller bucket, which is the Thai version of a flush toilet -- you fill the smaller bucket and pour small bucketfuls of water down the toilet until it’s clear. I started to rethink the Ton Sai plan, but I was prepared for rustic, so it was all good.
There's no electricity on Ton Sai during the day, and with only one small window which opened out onto a courtyard through which I had no view except other people, so it was pretty stifling in the bungalow. I decided to head out and see what there was to see. It turned out to be not a lot. I introduced myself to Jenn's friends, but their main way of spending time seemed to be sitting around smoking pot. That doesn't interest me, so I moved on. The beach is nonexistent for most of the day when the tide is out, and there is just a great big bed of rocks. The island is also pretty small, so long walks on the beach are pretty much out. Not quite what I had in mind. Since I was going to read, write, relax, sleep, and veg on the beach, it was seeming like maybe not so great a place. That was when I stopped rethinking the Ton Sai plan and started making the Get Off Ton Sai As Soon As Possible plan.
To top off a somewhat anticlimactic trip, I got
five hours in the airport in
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