Village Voice
I've been off this past week due to the madness that is the
Thai New Year, otherwise known as the Songkran Festival. It's a
Buddhist
festival that begins as a very nice ceremony where people line up and
give tons
of gifts to Buddhist monks of all ages, women ride by with paper
umbrellas on
bicycles, and it's very civilized. I got up early on the day
it
started (6:30 am) and went down to Thapae Gate where the ceremony was
with some Canadian friends, and we got up on top of the gate and
watched
and then went down and ate in a restaurant outside on the parade
route.
Shortly after the parade and the pomp and circumstance, the madness begins.
Apparently it's some sort of blessing/celebration
of the
fact that it's hotter than it has any right to be thing, but the
main way
Songkran is celebrated is by throwing water on people. Not
joking or
exaggerating. People drive by in pickup trucks and
throw entire
buckets of water on pedestrians, and the pedestrians
chuck their own
buckets right back. The streets are lined with people
selling
all manner of water guns and buckets, and barrels full of ice water for
people
to reload and keep right on firing. Everyone participates -- men,
women,
and children of all ages. I've never seen anything like it in my
life. The closest I can come to describing it is a crowd and
atmosphere
like
I don't mean to sound negative. At first --
for the
first six or eight hours -- I had an absolute blast. Haven't had
so much
fun in years! I got a bucket and a water gun and was flinging
water with
the best of them. But the problem is that not only water but
alcohol is
flowing like a river. So it turns from good harmless fun into
drunken
revelry in pretty short order. By the time I was ready to go home
I had
no choice but to walk, because the streets are not passable -- they're
full of
people -- and there's no way to walk even two steps without being
completely
drenched. It probably took me at least an hour to walk home, with
the
crowd becoming increasingly restive and rowdy. And it was 2:00 in
the
afternoon! The mall beside my place and the main road leading up
to it
were like
It was a much less eventful trip than my last time
in
School opens again tomorrow morning, and I'm
teaching 20
hours in four days in several different locations, then four hours a
day for
Thursday and Friday and two on Saturday. This is a private
school/academy
called New Zealand Education Services, or NES. As far as the
level
of English spoken here in Chiang Mai, it's pretty spotty. I don't
think
English is taught in Thai public schools. It's taught
in the
private ones, and in separate entities like NES, of which there
are many
all over the country. But Thai society is very
hierarchical,
and it seems to me that English is a privilege rather than a
right...the
kids I teach are pretty well-off. I think the tuition
at
places like
Some employers send their workers to places like NES to get some basic English skills, especially in places like Chiang Mai that see so many farang and where tourism is such an important part of the economy. Since Chiang Mai is the northern tourist center and the place where people come to go on treks all over northern Thailand and get visas to travel on into Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar...and even China, for that matter...there are a lot of jobs in tourism, but most of them require English skills, especially for trekking guides and the like.
People like the tuk-tuk and the taxi drivers
don't have
much English at all. You pretty much have to have your
destination
written in Thai to give to them, or go with something recognizable like
"Thaepae Gate". You can bargain with them (and it's pretty much
expected that you do) but in very limited fashion.
OK, this has turned into a dissertation on
life in