Village Voice
Amy Salmon continues her stories of adventures in
Here I am again with more from my trip around
Which is probably why I immediately got lost, in
spite of my
best efforts and a map, and had to spend at least two hours
wandering
through seemingly identical streets with markets in them. In
I had been in search of a park surrounding a
lake that
I'd seen on the map, which also had some temples and such, and
I had read
that there was a mall on the other side of it. I was looking
for
someplace air-conditioned, with a bookstore, benches, and a
restaurant. I eventually found it, but it wasn't what I had
hoped. It was air-conditioned, but it was
really just
a department store, and again, every time I hesitated, I was
accosted.
There were no bookstores, no benches, and no restaurants.
Argh.
I went back outside and tried to enjoy the stone
pagodas in
the lake. They were pretty. I sat on a bench for a few
minutes...and got approached again by someone trying to sell me
something. At this point I was suffering from "temple
burnout" in the extreme, not to mention "annoying vendor
burnout", and I just couldn't muster up that much enthusiasm for any of
the attractions on offer in
Spoiled by the excellent used bookstores in Chiang Mai, which are constantly re-supplied by an ever-changing stream of backpackers and other travelers passing through the city to and from places all over the globe, I found the selection of books in Vietnam somewhat lacking. Even in the tourist hotspot of Hoi An, a centuries-old Chinese and Japanese trading post city on the central Vietnamese coast renowned for its excellent and cheap tailors where I spent a weekend, there was nothing but the same measly selection of Xeroxed books, most of which don't appeal to me, or which do so only rarely. Travel books like "On the Road" (Jack Kerouac) and "The Beach" (Alex somebody whose name I can't remember, but whose book is very popular on the backpacker circuit, because it's set in the islands of southern Thailand and was made into a movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio, and is all about rejecting authority and finding enlightenment by staying in really cheap guesthouses and doing a lot of drugs. At least that's what I got from the five minutes I could sit through the movie before I changed the channel.).
I do find Bill Bryson's travel narratives
both
hilarious and insightful, but I'd just finished reading two of his
books, which
I'd bought in a similarly desperate reading situation from a similar
vendor on
the street in
When I finally made it to the airport, I was in
for more headaches,
in the form of long lines with lots of groups traveling together
that I
was stuck behind, waiting to check in for my flight. It wasn't
air-conditioned, and it was really hot and really crowded, and my bags
were
really heavy. So heavy, I discovered when I eventually got
to the
counter, that I had to pay extra baggage charges. They told me to
pay in
dollars, which I didn't have. Being in
There were lots of currency exchange booths,
but only
one of them had people in them, which didn't surprise me.
I got to the gate, and boarding happened shortly thereafter. That's when I remembered that Air Asia is like a bus in the sky, and the first time I'd flown the airline I'd vowed it would be the last. Unfortunately, I'd forgotten that vow when booking my trip, so here I was again. There isn't assigned seating, and it's a cheap airline, so there are inevitably tour groups and large families with lots of small children. I muscled my way onto the plane through the crowd, wondering as I do every time I board a plane what the rush to get on board is all about, and found a window seat. I leaned my head back and closed my eyes, trying to block out the sounds and relax.
Next thing I know, there are two guys in my row, to whom the idea of "personal space" is obviously a foreign concept. They're carrying on a loud conversation with friends of theirs who have apparently taken all three seats in the row behind me, and don't seem to know or care that someone is sitting in the window seat. I turn my body further toward the window and try to ignore them, until I see one of them reach into my seat pocket and take out my book as if it were his. Straw that broke the camel's back, there. "EXCUSE ME!" I say, giving him my best glare and snatching back my book. "THAT'S MINE!" He gives no evidence of understanding, and looks mildly surprised, but I give him a second glare for good measure, take my extra book out of the seat pocket and throw it into my bag, and shift even further over toward the window, turning my back all the way to him. It's going to be a long three hours, I thought, as I felt one of his buddies kick me through the seat.
It was. By the time we landed in
Even better, there was a convenience
store with
English books inside...that weren't only cheap photocopies of the same
fifteen
books! I smiled for the first time in hours. And across the
hall
from that was a 24-hour McDonald's, which solved the
problem
of finding someplace to eat in downtown KL in the wee small
hours of
the morning. Although I couldn't get breakfast in the
middle of the night, my flight to
The taxi ride was long, but very pleasant. I
got a
kick out of seeing the
By the time I finally got to my hotel, it was
after 3 am.
Fortunately, the hotel was swank. I had a huge room, a
bathtub
and a separate shower, two extremely comfortable beds, Internet
and room
service access, a flat screen TV, a robe and slippers, a coffee
maker, and
a refrigerator. It was quiet, and the curtains were heavy
and
dark. All was once again right with the world. It
was a
long day, but it was worth it. The