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FROM SOUTH KOREA (Part 3)
Amy Salmon continues her stories of adventures in
Southeast Asia
In honor of my three-month anniversary in Korea
(woo-hoo! Survived three
months!) I decided to go back and attempt to tell some stories from my
Southeast Asian swing back in April, and my last few days in Vietnam,
as I was
about to set off to cross another few countries off my list...
I set the trip up the way I did on purpose -- I wanted to
have the experience of seeing the richer countries of Southeast Asia
back
to back with the poorer ones -- and I wanted the break of the
richer
ones in between. It's fascinating to see and experience poor,
developing
countries, but it can be pretty depressing, too, and a lot of
work.
Although certain aspects of Thailand, and Chiang Mai in particular,
are pretty Western, it's still a developing country, and that
reality
is reflected in everything from the poor conditions of
sidewalks and
streets to the lack of drinkable tap water to the fact that you're
getting
drenched when it rains, because you're more than likely riding on
the back
of a motorcycle to get where you want to go, not inside a cab or a
subway,
and certainly not in an SUV. Still, Thailand
is New York City compared to Vietnam, Cambodia,
and Laos, and, for
that matter,
much of China.
So I went to Singapore before
tackling Vietnam,
and I flew
from Hanoi to spend a couple of
nights in
ultra-modern, ultra-rich Kuala Lumpur
before
tackling the jungles of Cambodia.
My last few days in Vietnam, when I finished my course in
Ho Chi Minh City and flew north to what is now-reunited Vietnam's
capital, Hanoi, were a kind of mixed bag. I
enjoyed my
course, but it was a lot of work, and by the end of it I
was
worn out, and quite honestly in no mood to do all of the traveling
I had
planned. If I hadn't already made plane and some hotel
reservations, I
would probably have found a way to extend my visa and headed
back to
the South China Sea, where I'd spent
Easter weekend. I would have then crashed on the beach
for at
least a week. Since I did have said
reservations, I got up
early the morning after my course was done and rode on the back of my
friendly
motorcycle chauffeur's bike for the last time through the streets of Ho
Chi
Minh City, balancing my stuffed duffel bag on the seat in front of
me and
the bag with my laptop in it on my hip. My suitcase was
balanced
between the driver's legs.
The flight to Hanoi
is about
two hours, and, in contrast to Ho
Chi Minh City, the airport is about an hour
outside
the city. I had asked the helpful owner of my guest house in
Saigon to book me a hotel. She'd
come through as
usual, and had written the directions in Vietnamese for the
taxi
driver in Hanoi
and told me about how much it should cost to get from the airport to my
hotel. She also told me that I should insist on the
rate that
she'd written down and not let them charge me any
more. I
got a cab with no problems and was soon on my way into
the city, noting that the airport in Hanoi
was much less of a mob scene with annoying touts than that of Ho Chi Minh City.
I figured that
my flight out to KL in two days' time would go
off without
a hitch. Ha!
But for the moment I was enjoying riding in
an actual
car rather than on a motorbike, fun as that can actually be. It was
misty out and
I was happy to be inside. The scenery was really nice -- all
green
rice paddies dotted with conical hats worn by workers in the
fields
-- and there were little stone houses beside them. Gradually
the
outskirts of Hanoi came into view, but there was still a marked
contrast
to Ho Chi Minh City, which is just an endless bustling mob scene of
motorcycles, with a car thrown in every now and then for good
measure.
There was less traffic of any kind on the way in, and the part of
the city
where I was staying was full of small, winding streets and markets
rather
than motorcycles. I also saw, as I'd been
expecting, a much
more pronounced French architectural influence.
Arriving at my hotel, I wasn't entirely surprised to
find that the desk clerks spoke very little English, but were
fluent in
French. In fact, they asked me if I spoke French and just
went on
from there, so I have a feeling Tu [guesthouse
owner] must have
told them I did. The room wasn't the Ritz, but it was
perfectly
nice. I was glad to see that it had a fridge, always
something I
like when traveling, because it lets me get a sandwich or something for
dinner
when I'm out during the day and be able to keep it for later, as well
as juice
or soda and yogurt or something for breakfast or a late-night
snack. Most
importantly, it had an air-conditioner, a nice big bed, a TV, and a
bathtub. It's the little things that make me happy! I
drew the
curtains, turned on the AC full-blast, turned on the TV to scope
out whether
or not I had any English channels, and crashed on the bed. If it
couldn't
be the beach beside the South China Sea,
it would have to do. I was done for the day.
In fact, I didn't do much more than that while in Hanoi the next
day and evening, either. The next afternoon I set
out for
a walk and in search of Vietnamese pho noodles,
which I
really like, and which I was determined to have once more before
leaving
the country. I'd seen some restaurants called "Pho 24"
with green awnings while out and about in Ho Chi Minh, and
I figured
that would be a good place to go. At least I'd be sure
it was pho I was getting and not some
random
other dish that I might not like! I'm getting more
adventurous with
food, but I've still got pretty big limits.
So, setting out from my hotel and taking
careful note
of which way I was turning, I was happy to see the familiar "Pho 24"
awning at the end of my street. It was across a big
street,
but, in another marked difference from the chaos of Ho Chi
Minh, it
was no problem to cross. There was actually a light and people
obeyed
it! This might not seem out of the ordinary, but trust me,
it is
for Ho Chi Minh City.
To say that there is no rhyme or reason to the traffic
patterns
is to greatly understate the matter. I had my pho,
along with some
really good Vietnamese coffee and a flan, and decided to go for a
walk.
It was really hot, as usual, but not raining or overcast, and
there were
some nice, wide streets and buildings that looked appealing not far
away.
I've been lost in a lot of cities by now, and it's
really not a lot of fun. It's just frustrating and
exhausting,
particularly when I get lost when I'm trying to get back to
my hotel
so I'm tired anyway, I'm on foot and it's sweltering,
or when I've
only intended to be out for a few minutes, and tried to
walk
around a block that turned out to be something
else entirely. That
actually happened to me in Singapore, of
all places, when I didn't even have any excuse, because all of the
signs
were in English for once! I went out of my hotel to go over to
the
7-Eleven I'd seen down the block, in search of
dinner. Convenience stores in Asia
are a great bet for finding Western food and a microwave to
go along
with them. Plus, in pricey Singapore, it was good
value. I found the 7-Eleven just fine, which really was
only
steps from my hotel. The problem was that I decided to take
a walk
around the block, because it was a nice night, and it
was all so
orderly and neat and just so different from Thailand,
and all the
signs were in English. It was such a luxury just to be
able to
read the signs. Well, let's just say that it was a
long
hour and a half later before I found my way back to the
7-Eleven and
my hotel, I saw a lot more of Singapore by
night than I had intended, and it was not possible to walk around that
particular block. Oh, and not everyone in Singapore
speaks
English. Of course, when I finally got so frustrated to
be
turned around that I gave up and asked someone, it was one of the
five
people living on the island who isn't fluent in English with a
flawless
British accent. I didn't have the energy to try and communicate
right
then -- mostly because I was so stunned that she didn't speak English
and it
just deflated me...this was supposed to be my vacation from not being
able to
communicate with those around me!! -- so I just kept going, and
eventually
found my way back on my own.
I really didn't want that to happen today in Hanoi. Accordingly,
I took careful note once again of where I was going and set
off
towards the buildings I'd seen. They really were nice,
and the
whole wide avenue where I was walking was strikingly like Paris. I
was meandering along, catching
a nice breeze and enjoying the shade, when I started to notice
that I was
the only person walking along the entire street. Even for
comparatively quiet Hanoi,
that seemed odd. I started looking around me a little
more closely. I started noticing soldiers -- with guns
--
stationed every few feet, standing in front of what looked like
gates. I
walked more slowly, eyeing them carefully, but they didn't seem to
be
being paying me any particular attention. I kept going,
and
realized that while I did seem to be the only pedestrian, there were
cars and motorbikes going back and forth on the
street beside me normally, and it didn't seem to be any sort
of truly
restricted area. I mean, there were no gates blocking the
road I
hadn't seen, or anything. I studied the buildings more
closely, and
saw lots of Vietnamese flags. It must be some sort of government
facility, I thought, and relaxed a little. The guns had really
unsettled
me. I saw what looked like a sniper on top of one of the
buildings, and
tensed up again. Where in the heck was I? I kept
walking to
the end of the block, crossed the street, and went back the way I
had
come, on the opposite side of the street. There were definitely a
lot of
soldiers with guns, but as long as the guns weren't trained on me,
I figured it was OK. I didn't linger, though, and the
enjoyment
I'd taken in my surroundings had vanished. Suddenly,
it didn't
seem at all like Paris.
It seemed very much like I was in a Communist country.
Which of
course I was, and this had been quite the reminder. Vietnam
these days has very much the feel of a capitalist nation in
many ways -- it's got a vibrant, lively, excited feel to it -- but
the war
wasn't really that long ago. In some ways, it's still very close
to the
surface. Relieved to see the "Pho 24" sign reappearing, I
headed back to the hotel. Enough adventures for one day.
Back in my room, I scoured the map to
see what
I could have stumbled into, and it looked like some kind of
military
academy. I don't suppose it was really any
different than
stumbling onto an American military base...after all,
they have
guns, too. But it'd be different for me, because they'd be from
my
country. Here, I was suddenly all too aware of being
a stranger in a
strange land. That happens, every once in a while.
This was
for sure one of those times.
That's all for now. I'm tired and I have a
lot of work
to do this week at school...I just got a whole new set of books that
have no
obvious teaching methods attached to them, and that are the wrong
levels for
virtually all of the students they're designed for. Sigh.
The good
news is that this week I have many hours of planning time in my
schedule,
and this week is the last week on the old set of books, and it's
planned. So I have a week to pull some more rabbits out
of my
hat.
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